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This page was written in 2009. Many, perhaps most, of the anti-evaporation products listed will no longer be available (in 2016). I don't have the time or inclination to update the available products. |
IntroductionThe value and cost of water in southern Australia has increased significantly in the last decade or two. Our governments should be spending serious money on researching evaporation limiting methods, but do not appear to be doing so, just as they are doing next to nothing to limit the cause of the problem – climate change.What can be done economically to reduce the evaporation losses of the increasingly precious and scarce water in storages across southern Australia? Whatever is done will cost money, but often to get by without water is not an option, we simply must have the water! In my own dams I loose far more water to evaporation than I use for irrigation. Annual evaporation in the Clare Valley, from a Bureau of Meteorology map on the Net, is between 1600 and 1800mm per year, and the Northern and Yorke Natural Resources Management Board has estimated that evaporative losses from farm dams (2100ML/yr) is greater than the amount of irrigation water that is taken from them. In warmer areas – and most of South Australia is warmer than Clare – the losses would be even worse. The simple loss of water is not even the whole problem; when the water evaporates any salt – there is always salt in natural water – is left behind; so the salinity of the remaining water increases. The higher the salinity of water, the more problematic is its use. Reducing evaporationOn a calm day the air close to the surface of the water in a storage becomes saturated with water vapour. So long as the layer of saturated air stays put, there will be little further evaporation, but if there is a wind the saturated air layer will be continually mixing with dry air and evaporation will continue.Evaporation can be reduced by either providing some sort of a barrier between the water and the air or by somehow slowing the movement of the air near the water surface. Planting a wind-break of trees and shrubs around the dam will help to some extent. Things to consider regarding evaporation limiting methods
Several of the products use expanded polystyrene which, in my experienc, becomes chalky and powdery on the surface after long exposure to sunlight. Obviously if your dam leaks then an evaporation barrier is not going to change that. All of the products that seem likely to be acceptable and effective are going to stop you from swimming in your dam. Air-water contactMy reading on the evaporation barrier subject indicates that if the water contains a significant amount of organic matter (leaves, algae, invertebrates, etc.) there must be significant contact between air and water to avoid the water going bad. If contact with the air and light is cut off the algae and inverbebrates will die. They and the leaf litter will then rot and this will quickly use up all the oxigen in the water; substances such as methane and hydrogen sulphide (rotten egg gas) are produced by bacteria that live in anoxic conditions, and quite probably the water will become acidic.This problem can be avoided if most of the organic matter is removed from the water before it goes into the sealed storage. Some thoughts on costsEvaporation reduction does not come cheap; either you pay for ready-made fixes in money or you pay for home-made fixes with less money but a lot of your time. The costs of the individual products can be found in another section of this page.
A rough calculation: my case – This might be compared with using a big covered tank. I priced a 250kL tank at $15 000. Assuming a life of 15 years we have 250kL × 15 = 3.75ML; $15 000 for 3.75ML is $4/kL. Also the evaporation barrier will make up to 2ML available to me while the tank would only have given me an eighth as much. I will leave it to the accountants to calculate money costs, depreciation, etc. |
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Climate change in the Clare ValleyMy dam is in the Clare Valley of South Australia. The climate is changing in the Valley; temperatures are increasing, consequently runoff is decreasing and evaporation (and evaptranspiration) is increasing. This would apply to most of the southern half of Australia. |
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Note that in most cases the temperatures (and in particular those of the spring and summer of 2007/08) were higher than those for average months (pink plots are above blue plots) – evidence that the climate is warming in the Clare Valley. On average the temperatures during the whole of the period shown on the graph were 0.79° warmer than the long-term average.
These data are extracted from Bureau of Meteorology records available on
the Net.
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For the solid barriers and covers I have excluded at least some products that were more expensive than about $15 per square metre: I can't afford to pay that much (except if I was sure that such a product would last, say, twenty years or more, and none of these products have been available for anything like that length of time).
The products are listed in alphabetical order.
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AgFloats
The business is based at 93 Frome St., Adelaide (phone 08 8232 3388), and has another site at 20 Evans St., Woodside, (SA, phone 08 8389 9544) The person to talk to is John Crosby. To my knowledge, the system has been used on at least one station (NW of Kimba in South Australia). The manager of that station told me that it had resulted in an 80% reduction in evaporation. As I write in July 2009, AgFloats are converting from a system based on truck tires (Mark 1) to one based on car tires (Mark 2). The latter have the advantage to the land-holder of being lighter and easier to move, if that is necessary; Mr Crosby claims that the new system will provide even greater evaporation reduction. A disadvantage to the new system, in my mind, is that the polystyrene is exposed to sunlight and will gradually degrade – although the tires will provide some protection from the UV light. Also, since the new system uses new polystyrene it is less environmentally-friendly than the old system which used recycled. CostAs of July 2009, I believe the price of these has not been decided, because of the conversion in the process, but I am lead to believe that they should cost about $10 per square metre; about $7000 for my approximately 700m2 dam.My thoughtsThis product seems to me to be the front runner in evaporation reduction methods for farm dams (as of mid-2010). Its price is much lower than Aquacap and I like the fact that it is using recycled tires that would otherwise go to land fill. The tires should protect the polystyrene from degradation by ultraviolet light. I bought AgFloats for my dam.
AquaGuardA quick Net search suggested to me that this product may still be available for swimming pool covers, but not for dam covers.Aquatain
I emailed Aquatain (info@aquatain.com.au) on 2009/03/02 inquiring about whether any independent report of the product's effectiveness was available. I received a reply from Peter Leach, (a/the) director of Aquatain the following day. Total Ag Services Pty, Ltd of Dalby, Qld. had done an evaluation in April 2007. Peter Leach forwarded me a copy of this. The trial was carried out over a three-week period and the gist of the report was that the evaporation was reduced by about 50% during this period. Mr Leach also forwarded a water test report which suggested that the water quality was not adversely effected by Aquatain.
A flaw in my first trial setup was that the tub would be likely to get quite hot in the sun and then the amount of evaporation from it would increase due to this heating. By setting the tub in the ground this disproportionate solar heating should be avoided. ConclusionMy trial indicated that Aquatain, at least in this particular setting, is of no value. There is a suggestion in the data that the layer disappears after only a day or two.Could it be that Aquatain is adsorbed onto the clay particles around the edge of my dam? Clay very effectively adsorbs many substances. Perhaps Aquatain would work where it does not come into contact with clay, for example, in the case of a plastic-lined dam? Aquatain has been on the market for several years, it is readily available; it was held in stock at my local irrigation supply store. Many people must have tried it. It is disappointing that no-one else had taken the little trouble needed to investigate whether the stuff worked and put their results on the Net. SeepageThe above calculations do not take into account the possibility of seepage. Measurements that I did in June and July of 2009 indicated that seepage in my dam is negligible.Aquacap
The product is a circular floating disc made of polypropylene, 1.15m in diameter, 200mm high and weighing 3kg each. They are claimed to have been tested to wind speeds of 130kph. Lifespan is claimed to be five years plus. Other benefits claimed:
CostI phoned and asked for an approximate price for my dam, which is about 700m2 in area. I was told I'd need about 600 discs at a price of $23.50 each plus GST, a total of about $15 500 ($26 per square metre); much more expensive than AgFloats.
CURVMentioned in the DKCRC, WaterSmart paper, apparently not commercially available yet. No URL or supplier details known.Defined Sump
"Defined sump floating reservoir covers use a combination of attached closed cell foam floats and sand tube ballasts. These elements are used to create drainage sumps that collect and carry storm water to either scavenging pumps or gravity drains for water removal into a drainage system. The floating cover itself is typically fabricated of reinforced Hypalon or polypropylene geomembranes. Floats and ballasts are encapsulated in geomembrane as well for maximum longevity. Our new lightweight evaporation control covers and algae control covers are produced from unsupported Enviro Liner 6030. Enviro Liner 6030 is a highly durable cover material which offers excellent long term weathering capabilities and is NSF 61 certified for potable water applications." My thoughtsI suspect that installation would cause serious damage of the native vegetation on my dam wall. The Desert Knowledge CRC paper gives an estimated cost (Dec. 2004) of $30/2m, which is too expensive for me. I have no need to keep water and run-off out of my dam – quite the contrary.Enviro Dam CoverThe Net page is not very informative. It states several times that the product is a "Twin Plastic Board cover", but does not state what the plastic is, nor any detail about construction. It goes on to state; "Maintaining healthy water quality: Our solution hampers bacterial growth by allowing natural UV light to filter through and kill bacteria. This helps maintain the water in a good condition." This sounds highly questionable to me; bacteria are a very natural part of any ecosystem, and while they are killed by ultra violet light, this would only happen in the upper levels of any murky dam.The Net page states that the cover is guaranteed for three years against damage by UV light. This seems to me to be inadequate; what about damage from wind and other causes (such as animal feet)? In any case a dam cover should have a life much greater than three years. CostThe Net page states that the cost is $8 per square metre, and installation is done by the land-owner. The product comes in 3mm or 5mm thickness "depending on the desired application and strength"; presumably the $8 price applies to the 3mm thickness.ContactTrading as Dam Covers Now 31 Cheam St, Dandenong North, VIC 3175 Ph: +61 3 9774 8303 | Fax: +61 3 9774 7336 | info@afb.com.au
E-Vap Cap (or Evap-Cap)
"The floating cover consists of a unique, multi-layered, polyethylene membrane 540 microns in thickness that contains its own buoyancy cells. It carries a 5-year pro-rata warranty against UV breakdown due to sunlight exposure (independent NATA laboratory testing indicates a much longer "life" expectancy than 10 years). Optional thicker material, up to 1000 microns is available giving greater warranty and a design life of 20 years." An inquiry requesting price and installation requirements, 2009/08/18, resulted in a quick response including a pdf file on E-vapcap and other products by the same company. This pdf file stated, among other things, that "The covers feature a conditional ten year warranty, however, testing indicates a much greater lifespan"; which is true, five or ten year? A request for a price resulted in a written quote from Bartlett Water Services. I had given 20m x 30m as the approximate dimensions of the surface of the water in my dam when full. Bartlett took my dimensions to be those of the dam at the top of the batters, which would actually be considerably larger than my 20x30m. They stated that the "quantity of material required including allowances for top of banks, anchor trenches, welding overlaps etc is approx. 1011.842" and gave an approximate price of $10 175 plus freight. As the dimensions of my dam at the top of the batters would probably be at least 25x35m it would seem the adjusted cost would be considerably higher, perhaps $14 000, plus freight ($23 per square metre in my case). Installation was not included in the quote. None of the information I have read on E-Vap Cap says anything about whether any significant contact between the air and the water in the dam is maintained. My general reading indicates that such contact is important. My thoughtsThis product is expensive, especially so as it must be large enough to not only cover the water in the dam but also the anchoring trenches.my dam wall is well covered in native vegetation that has become established over a period of 15 years; digging the anchor trenches and refilling them would destroy much of this. My reading on the evaporation barrier subject indicates that there must be significant contact between air and water if there is to be no risk of the water becoming anoxic, smelly, and deadly to most aquatic organisms. Would this cover provide that contact? What happens to dust, leaves, etc. that blow onto the cover, and rainwater that falls on the cover? How stable would the cover be in strong winds, especially when the water level in the dam is low?
Evap-MatQuoting from DKCRC, WaterSmart paper:
Apparently Evap-Mat is a product of DeVere Mining Technology Limited, who state on their Evap-Mat Net page that it is "a low cost, long life floating cover for water reservoirs and dams at mining sites". DeVere also state that the project is temporarily on hold (2009/09/17). My thoughtsThe expected life is great, but why then is no warrantee period stated?
Fabtech
HexDomeQuoting from DKCRC, WaterSmart paper:
I was unable to find anything on the Net connected with this product (2009/09/17). My thoughtsIf it is easily installed by the owner then there must be no need for earth-works to anchor it. I like the fact that it uses recycled plastic. No warrantee is mentioned.
Lem Tec Modular Single Sheet Cover SystemMentioned in the DKCRC, WaterSmart paper, apparently not commercially available yet.Mod-E-VapMentioned in the DKCRC, WaterSmart paper, apparently not commercially available yet.Netpro suspended cover
My thoughtsThe anchoring of the high tension steel cables would require major disturbance of the native vegetation on my dam wall.
PolynetMentioned in the DKCRC, WaterSmart paper, apparently not commercially available yet.My thoughtsPolynet is based on polystyrene sheets wrapped in a net. Polystyrene becomes chalky and powdery when exposed to sunlight for long periods.
QUIT Evap Modular Floating CoverQuoting from DKCRC, WaterSmart paper:
My thoughtsA life span of five, even eight, years is not long enough.
Raftex
Raftex is a product of F Cubed Australia Pty. Ltd., 23 Millennium Park Drive, Whittlesea, Victoria, Australia, 3757. They can be reached at email fcubed@fcubed.com.au It is claimed that "Raftex has been comprehensively tested by the University of Southern Queensland for the National Centre for Engineering in Agriculture. The Raftex units are hexagonal and link together – with sufficient space between units to allow proper aeration of the water and for rainwater to get into the pondage. Each panel weighs 16kg, covers 16m2 of water and is made of galvabond steel tubing, polystyrene foam, and polyethylene film. It has a 10 year guarentee. Apparently a minimum of 30cm of water should be left in the dam at all times to anchor the panels. My thoughtsThe requirement for a minimum of 30cm of water in the dam is a concern; how could one make sure that there is always at least that much water left in the dam – after all, lack of water is the problem that these devices are supposed to solve. And in a small dam that may only be two or three metres deep, 30cm represents a considerable volume of water.What life would the galvanised steel have in a continually damp situation, especially if significant salinity was involved? A guarentee is not much use if the company behind the product goes broke.
Revoc
"REVOC Floating covers use patented tensioners attached around the perimeter of the cover system to prevent undue cover movement and wrinkling regardless of the reservoir's water level fluctuation. Tensioners also serve to retain slack cover material in a defined peripheral sump. Cover drains conduct storm water into a drainage system. The floating cover is typically fabricated of reinforced Hypalon or polypropylene geomembranes. Floats and weights are encapsulated in geomembrane for maximum longevity. REVOC floating covers offer lower maintenance and lower replacement cost than other floating cover type." My thoughtsInstallation of the tensioners would cause serious damage of the native vegetation on my dam wall. The Desert Knowledge CRC paper gives an estimated cost (Dec. 2004) of $30/2m to Layfield's other dam cover, Defined Sump, which is too expensive for me. I have no need to keep water and run-off out of my dam – quite the contrary.WaterSavrThis is a powder that is spread over the surface of the water. It is claimed that evaporation is reduced by "up to 50%". I believe that it needs to be replaced at fairly frequent intervals. Flexible Solutions have a Net page on WaterSavr.On 2013/09/03 Dr Chris Fellows, Senior Lecturer in Chemistry, School of Science and Technology, University of New England, Armidale NSW was kind enough to provide the following in regard to WaterSavr: "It is a substance called hexadecanol mixed with lime to help it spread on the surface. The hexadecanol is innocuous and will degrade quickly (bacteria eat it) – probably even faster than you saw the Aquatain degrade, I expect [you] would have to apply it every three or four days. There wouldn't be enough lime in the small amounts used to make much of a difference to the pH of your dam, so there should be no worries at all about soil or water quality. (Products like it have been used in very large scale trials since about 1950 – which is an indication that no one has figured out how to get reproducible results from it yet, or we would be applying it routinely everywhere!) My thoughtsIn effect it sounds similar to Aquatain, which I have tried and been disappointed with.
PV panels
Have they considered the fact that by virtually stopping evaporation and by transferring the heat from the panels into the water they will be heating the water? The exposed (warm) water around the sides of the pond will evaporate relatively quickly and cool the whole of the water body to some extent, but of course this will lessen the desired evaporation reduction aim. While the panels will heat the water during the day, quite a bit of that heat will then radiate away during the night (Passive cooling by radiation). However it is not possible to have both maximum cooling effect on the panels and maximum reduction in evaporation at the same time.
It is a very innovative and commendable project and should work very
well, although perhaps not quite so well as the proponents are claiming.
Other evaporation barriersThere are more products out there for reducing evaporation. I'd be grateful if any reader can tell me anything useful about other system, or those mentioned above, especially if they have had personal experience with them; my email address is at the top of this page.Also see Using waste materials.
Floating fencesEvaporation from a water surface is greatly increased if there is a wind that continually removes the thin layer of saturated air in contact with the water surface and replaces it with dry air. Reducing the wind speed across the surface of the water reduces evaporation and various wind-breaks, including floating fences, can help.Reducing the wind speed would also be valuable if a monolayer of chemical (such as Aquatain, mentioned elsewhere on this page) is used. I was informed about floating fences, I haven't researched them myself.
A paper,
The effect of wind on evaporation suppressing films and methods of modification by Franklin R. Crow, discusses the use of monolayer evaporation barriers and wind-breaking fences.
Floating plantsI have wondered if a floating plant mat, perhaps consisting of something like the fern Azolla filiculoides might be effective, but research carried out by Saintly and Associates (New South Wales) for the Cotton Research and Development Corporation and published in July 1995 found that "Azolla filiculoides does not reduce evaporation significantly enough to warrant further testing."The same report discussed the use of other plants too, with similarly disappointing results. Another report, published in "Environmental Solutions" 2007/08/05, author not stated, was brought to my attention by an interested reader. It is worth quoting several paragraphs: "The more floating-leaved plants present, the less evaporation, because there is less exposed water for evaporation. At the same time, emersed and floating plants, such as cattail and water hyacinth, because of their structure and leaf area, transpire more water than would evaporate in the same area. Therefore, lakes filled with emersed and floating plants will lose more water to the atmosphere than will open water lakes having few plants. Lakes covered with water hyacinth will lose water much more quickly than will open water lakes.Note, even the best plants only reduced evaporation by 15%.
Shade clothI considered making a shade cloth cover for my dam. It would shade the water and greatly reduce wind velocity over the water; both factors reducing the evaporation rate.
I decided against the idea, having used shade cloth in areas exposed to
wind I knew that is could suffer from wear if it was to move at all over any
supporting structure, and I decided that the support it would need would
be complex and expensive.
The cost of the shade cloth itself would also be quite high.
Using waste materialsSelected flotsom picked up from beaches could be useable.Scrap plastic bottles are available in big numbers, but I suspect they would have a short life if exposed to sunlight; if the bottles themselves didn't deteriorate, the caps might. Also they could blow off the dam's surface, unless they were partly filled with water. South Australia's container deposit would pose an administrative problem here. GlassWine bottles are available in large numbers at no cost from at least some recycling agents. Unfortunately a very large number of wine bottles (about 60/m2, around 42 000 for my dam) and some very cheap way of sealing them would be needed. The time required for collecting and sealing the bottles would make the project impractical.Glass objects can be produced cheaply and glass has a very long life in the open and would not cause any pollution of the water in the dam. Could purpose-made glass floats be made at a competative price? Installing the glass floats without smashing them would pose a technical problem. Tractor tiresOld tractor tires are freely available in agricultural areas where there are also many dams. Used 20L pesticide containers are also plentiful. Cleaned 20L containers can be used to make floats (four to a tire) inside the tractor tires; the tires would protect the containers from most sunlight.Floating wood barrierWhy not float scrap wood on the dam's surface?Untreated wood will, I believe, become waterlogged, sink, and rot; not only becoming useless, but polluting the water. I wouldn't use wood treated with copper, chrome arsenate (CCA, the green stuff) because of the risk of the heavy metals leaching into and poisoning the water. What about wood treated with creosote? The creosote would stop the wood from rotting and might stop it from becoming waterlogged. It would be unadvisable to use water from any dam with creo scrap floating on it for drinking or for water for animals to drink, but it might be harmless for irrigation of plants? I'm thinking something like creo posts pulled out of old vineyards; the creosote would be much more bound to the wood in such old posts than in new ones. It would be possible for scrap wood to be coated with something to waterproof it, but this doesn't seem to be something the dam owner could practically do. Could wood be protected from waterlogging by encasing it in recycled plastic? It might be a business opportunity.
External research and linksSaintly and Associates (New South Wales) did research on reducing evaporation rates from water storages for the Cotton Research and Development Corporation and published in July 1995.
Environmental Solutions; "Do Lotus Leaves Reduce Evaporation in the Lakes in Drought Times?"; the piece discusses a number of plant species that were tested.
Other links are within the sections on various products.
What I did
I had some concern for the stability of the polystyrene because of it being exposed to sun and weather. By May 2010 there was some evidence of birds having broken some of it away from some tires, but nine years later the polystyrene was still very much in place.
I've written about my experiences with the AgFloats
below.
To be clear I will confirm that there is nothing in the circle where the wheel went when the tires were on cars. Unfortunately the company that made AgFloats went out of business a year or so after I installed them. To what do I attribute the effectiveness of the AgFloats?Of course the AgFloats do not reduce evaporation from the parts of the dam that they do not cover.I believe that they are very effective in reducing evaporation from the parts of the dam that they do cover, even though they provide a direct evaporation barrier to only about 50% of the water surface, because they reduce the velocity of the wind on the water surface. On a calm day a thin layer of air in contact with the water surface becomes saturated with water vapour. Evaporation from a water surface is greatly increased if there is a wind that continually removes the thin layer of saturated air in contact with the water surface and replaces it with dry air. Reducing the wind speed across the surface of the water reduces evaporation by reducing the rate at which the layer of saturated air is replaced with dry air. UnexpectedBy 2016 a number of redgum trees had become established in some of the tires. I have written about this on another page on this site.My experiences with AgFloats, written February 2019
If they were still commercially available I would recommend them. In the Clare Valley, where my dam is, there was very little run-off in 2018. I have no doubt that my dam would have gone completely dry before the end of that year without the AgFloats. With the AgFloats I still had a little water in mid March 2019 (the water level had dropped so low that I couldn't pump at the end of March). Water is most needed locally between October and April, so the dam got me most of the way through the dry season when it was needed. The photo on the right shows that there are far fewer tires than would be required to cover the entire dam when it is full. Challenges/limitationsThe fact that only about half of the total area of the dam, when full, is covered with AgFloats has led to several challenges and limitations. I didn't buy enough to cover the whole dam because of the cost.
General observations
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